Bolting is not an activity to be taken lightly! Due to the many variables in bolt placement and rock types and potential force it is almost impossible to accurately estimate a bolt’s strength. It also is not in the spirit of conversation to go around setting bolts at the drop of a hat. Bolts will rust leaving unsightly stains on rock, the rock will eventually weather away from the anchor, thereby increasing erosion to the formation and lastly, due to the weathering of the rock, the bolt will tend to lose strength with age. However, in some situations bolting may be the only way to anchor a rope. For example, anchoring on a solid smooth rock wall with no cracks or crevices or to place a directional to prevent the rope from abrading on a protrusion. In general, the larger the bolt, the stronger the bolt. Bolts should be placed so that the load will pull on the anchor at 90 degrees from the anchor’s plane. Anchors must be flush with the surface with no voids, chips or cracks in the surrounding rock. Never support a critical load from one bolt! Two, three or more bolts with an equalizing anchor will divide the load equally between all of the bolts making for a much safer anchor. Never, never put a critical load on an anchor or bolt without a completely separate, bombproof belay on the load. Bolting is a skill that must not be utilized without extensive training and practice.
We suggest consulting the following books: Caving and Single Rope Techniques.
Petzl
Bolt Drivers
Bolt Drivers are used to drill and place Petzl self‑drilling
anchors. Designed for use with 5/16”(8mm) anchors, optional adapters allow the
use of 3/8”(10mm) anchors. Two models: standard and with rubber grip. Made in
· Weight: standard 9.7oz.(277g), rubber grip 13.4oz.(383g)
· Nylon wrist loop
· Includes spare tip and pin
Catalog #P08 Standard Driver
Catalog #P09 5/16”(8mm) Driver with Rubber Grip
Catalog #P09300 5/16”(8mm) to 3/8”(10mm) Adapter
Petzl
Bolting Hammer & Bag
A compact hammer for setting anchors to aid climbing. Well‑balanced,
lightweight and pleasant to use tool. Includes a 1/2”(12.5mm) wrench in end of
handle. The bag is used to store and organize equipment. Bag can be opened and
closed while attached to harness. Made in
· Weight hammer ‑ 19.4oz.(554g)
· Weight bag ‑ 6.4 oz.(183g)
· Hammer includes wrist strap
· Length of hammer ‑ 10”(25.6cm)
Catalog #P16 Bolting Hammer
Catalog #C11 Bolting Bag
|
Catalog# |
Description |
Bolt Size |
Drill Diameter |
Drill Depth |
Wrench Size |
Additional Comments |
Weight oz.(g) |
Material |
|
P12 |
Self Drilling Anchor |
8mm |
12.5mm |
30mm |
13mm |
|
.56(16) |
Steel |
|
P30 |
Self Drilling Anchor |
10mm |
15mm |
38mm |
17mm |
|
1.1(30) |
Steel |
|
P04 |
Twist Hanger |
8mm |
12.5mm |
30mm |
13mm |
Simple Twist |
1.1(30) |
Aluminum |
|
P13 |
90 Hanger |
8mm |
12.5mm |
30mm |
13mm |
90 Twist |
1.1(30) |
Aluminum |
|
P34 |
90 Hanger |
10mm |
15mm |
38mm |
17mm |
90 Twist |
2.2(62) |
Steel |
|
P34050 |
90 Hanger Only |
8mm (no bolt) |
12.5mm |
30mm |
13mm |
Bolt Not Included |
1.75(49) |
Steel |
|
P20 |
Clown |
8mm |
12.5mm |
30mm |
13mm |
Carabinerless |
1.4(40) |
Aluminum |
|
P37 |
Double Expansion Anchor |
10mm |
14mm |
68mm |
17mm |
Use in Softer Rock |
4.25(120) |
Steel |
|
P39 |
Long Life |
10mm |
12.5mm |
|
12.5mm |
Resist Corrosion |
3.5(98) |
Stainless Steel |
|
P40 |
Glue-In |
14mm |
15mm |
100mm |
None |
Glue-In Place |
8(228) |
Steel |
Ice Screw
This Ice Screw is fashioned from ultra hard aluminum alloy with hard finish. Super sharp threads allow them to place by hand, even in hard water ice. Design features include an exclusive cylindrical-cut thread pattern for easy placement and removal, superb stability and grip, extremely sharp teeth and threads, and polished finish. Diameter: 21mm. Strength: 4000 lbs.(1814kg). Length 7”(18cm). Weight 3.7oz.(105g).
Catalog #is Ice Screw